Sunday 24 March 2013

A Short History of Old Strathcona

Courtesy of Alhambra Books
10115 - 81 Avenue — On the Fuzzy Edge of Whyte Avenue
50,000 Quality Books At Affordable Prices


A Short History of Old Strathcona
By Tom Monto
(Excerpted from his 500-page book
Old Strathcona - Edmonton's Southside Roots
available at Alhambra Books and the OSF Booth at the Farmers’ Market.)

Through the 1800s, Wood Cree and Prairie Blackfoot battled in what is now southside Edmonton, asserting dominance in the long-standing “grey zone” between the two nations.
 
After peace was established at Peace Hills “Wetaskiwin” in 1871, Metis and Euro-Canadians felt safe to settle in southside Edmonton. Metis farmers, freighters, small entrepreneurs, working often for the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Fort Edmonton, settled along the south shore, from Cloverdale where William Bird established a flour mill alongside “Mill Creek,” to Garneau’s farmhouse, in today’s Garneau neighbourhood.
 
John Walter left his Fort Edmonton employment and settled on the southside. He started a ferry and established many other businesses in Walter’s Flats (Walterdale): lumberyard, coalmine, woodworking factory, etc., becoming Strathcona’s first millionaire.
 
James McKernan established a farm where today’s McKernan neighbourhood is.
An early survey (1882) carved up the land creating University Avenue, making the land ready for a wave of white pioneers, resulting in the 1885 Metis Rebellion. After the Metis were defeated, peace settled on a land joined to eastern Canada by the CPR through Calgary.
 
In 1891, the Calgary & Edmonton Railway connected Edmonton (or at least South Edmonton) to the CPR. The railway company built the Strathcona Hotel and the first railway station (a replica of this building now is at 10447 - 86 Avenue). The railway surveyed Main Street (today’s 104 Street) and Whyte Avenue, named after a CPR vice-president.
 
On the first trains came pioneer families whose names echo through the history of Old Strathcona:
John Gainer and his packinghouses and 1902 butchershop (at 10341 Whyte)
William Ross whose Ross Block still stands at 10309 Whyte.
Robert Ritchie’s mill was built at the end-of-steel, where it stands as the oldest
surviving timber mill in western Canada.
A.C. Rutherford arrived and established a legal practice on Whyte Avenue before
becoming Alberta‘s first premier in 1905.

Fine homes were built. One small area has A. McLean’s 1896 home at 10454 - 84 Ave.; Delmar Bard’s 1912 house at 10544 - 84 Ave.; J. Jackson’s 1912 house, 10443 - 85 Ave.
The pioneers brought with them the mutual-help groups they had known at Home.
Loyal Orange Order. The Orange Hall still stands behind the Library.
Masons. The 1929 Acacia Masonic Temple is on 83 Avenue.
 
Schools were built: Duggan Street (Queen Alexandra) School was built in 1906…
St. Anthony School, built by Roman Catholics, stands next to the historic Baptist Church, at 104 Street and 84 Ave … The 1909 Strathcona Collegiate (today’s Old Scona) is nearby.
 
A woodframe Commercial Hotel was built, later replaced by today’s brick Blues on Whyte.
 
The Yukon Gold Rush saw hundreds come to Strathcona, the closest rail point to that bonanza (although still 2200 kilometres away!) They spent money in Whyte Avenue stores, Many decided to settle here, some panning for gold at suitably-named Goldbar.
 
In 1899, the hamlet of South Edmonton became a town, named after CPR magnate Sir Donald Smith, the first baron of Strathcona and Mount Royal.
 
Edmontonians still dreamed of getting a railway and organized the Edmonton, Yukon and Pacific Railway. This railway – although not going as far as the Pacific…or the Yukon… or even out of Edmonton – did build a bridge across the river. The Low Level Bridge, the first bridge across the North Saskatchewan, opened for road traffic in 1900, for trains in 1902.
 
In 1901, Strathcona had 1500 residents. As befitting a metropolis of this size, town council outlawed the construction of woodframe buildings in the downtown, to lessen the threat of fire spreading. The new building code saw the construction of the Dominion Hotel (a replica stands on its original site, 10324 Whyte) and its neighbours, the Bank of Commerce Building and the Sheppard Block.
 
When the Province of Alberta was founded in 1905, Whyte Avenue lawyer Rutherford was elected its first premier. Rutherford named Strathcona as the location of the University of Alberta and the newly-built brick Queen Alexandra School at 78 Avenue and 106 Street became its first home. Strathcona’s MP Peter Talbot became a Canadian senator. Wilbert McIntyre of McIntyre Fountain fame became the new MP.

On March 15, 1907, Strathcona became a city. A city hall (since demolished) and a new firehall (now Walterdale Theatre) followed. Preparations were made for a new city hospital (later the U of A Hospital; since demolished) and for a Public Library (opened 1913).
 
1909–1913 High Level Bridge and the soon-to-be-lost Walterdale Bridge constructed.
 
The “Twin Cities” negotiated amalgamation—S’cona was guaranteed the McKernan Lake Streetcar line, nicknamed the Toonerville Trolley, an annual sports day at the Southside Athletic Grounds (today’s Strathcona Composite Schoolyard), a southside courthouse and city office, recognition as a single political entity for election-district boundaries, and more.

Amalgamation under one name “Edmonton” came into effect on February 1, 1912.

Old Strathcona” struggled along as an overlooked sister, its businesses selling goods and services to local residents, the University crowd and area farmers in what would be the County of Strathcona. Its old buildings slowly became heritage properties and funky locations for movie sets, as the Old Strathcona Foundation and other local activists fended off their destruction by the city and private developers.

Thursday 21 March 2013

Old Strathcona's History Revealed in New Book by Tom Monto

Old Strathcona's History Revealed in New Book

Old Strathcona, Edmonton's Southside Roots,written by Tom Monto, is the story of southside Edmonton from its start as a scattering of Metis/Indian log cabins to its development as a bustling section of the City of Edmonton in the boom times of the 1920s. The community's history is filled with many ups and downs, personal tragedies and public victories, floods, fires, fights and frights. Author Tom Monto tells of the struggles of immigrant families, of farmers, workers and small business people, of political radicals and reformers, in such a way that comparisons with today's world are not difficult to see.
According to Old Strathcona, Edmonton Southside Roots, the first people to settle in the area were rough-and-ready employees of the old Fort Edmonton furtrading post. Many of them were Metis connected to the Papaschase Cree band in the area. A portion of the book written by Randy Lawrence elaborates on this connection. Through the 1880s pioneer white families moved in, the Cree band was moved out and the land surveyed in preparation for organized settlement.

The coming of the railway in 1891 gave a big impetus to the area's development. The Calgary and Edmonton Railway was expected to cross the river to connect to the "old town" of Edmonton on the northside. However, the railway did not bridge the river and "south Edmonton" grew up on the southside. The southside community grew outwards from its railway station and nearby railway hotel, that survives today as the Strathcona Hotel. The settlement's commercial centre filled up with simple woodframe buildings and later with more elaborate brick buildings, many of which survive even today. These historic buildings anchor today's Whyte Avenue, which is now Edmonton's premier historic area.

Strathcona became a town in 1899, then a city in 1907. Amalgamation with the larger city of Edmonton in 1912 ended the community's separate existence and the area was particularly hard hit by the downturn of WW I. However, residents of "Old Strathcona" played a large role in the life of the combined cities, as the last section of the book shows.

This extensively researched 500-page "door-stopper" includes numerous archival photographs, bibliographical footnotes and an index to the hundreds of names and buildings that it describes. It is a revised edition of the respected book that Monto published in 2008.

Copies of Old Strathcona, Edmonton's Southside Roots are available at Alhambra Books, 10115 - 81 Avenue, ph. 780-439-4195, for $38.

Women of Old Strathcona Worth Remembering, Says Local Historian

Women of Old Strathcona Worth Remembering, Says Local Historian

Where would we be without the hard work of the women of the past, asks local historian Tom Monto. The author of the book Old Strathcona - Edmonton's Southside Roots says that many tough women appeared in Strathcona history through the years.

Prior to the invention of "labour-saving devices" on the farms and workshops, couples had many children to help out around the place. Mothers cooked large meals on wood or coal stoves to feed the numerous children who seemed to be always hungry.

Edmonton's Southside Roots gives the example of Margaret Martin. She and her husband settled on a rough pioneer farm near today's Mount Pleasant Cemetery in 1899. Only two years later her husband died and Margaret was left to cope alone wit the farm and to care for their 11 children. She coped so well that eight years later she had the money to pay for the construction of a substantial brick house "in town." This house still stands at the corner of 84 Avenue and 106 Street. A daughter, Grace Martin, taught in area schools for many years and now has a school named after her.

Tom Monto also included the stories of many women who had heroic accomplishments after the pioneer era had passed.

Emily Murphy, living on the southside near the University in the 1920s, is one of the people he was happy to include in his book. A best-selling author, Murphy was a leader in the movement to get women appointed to the Senate. It was on the front porch of her home on 88 Avenue that Alberta's "Famous Five" met in 1927 to launch a legal appeal to achieve that measure of equality. Two years later they achieved their goal.

Margaret Crang grew up on Strathcona's Main Street, now known as 104 Street. In 1933, at the age of 23, she was elected to he Edmonton city council. Two years later she was the most popular candidate in the city when she won re-election. In 1937, she and other Labour candidates were ignored at the polls. Her political career was over - at the age of 27.

Old Strathcona - Edmonton's Southside Roots uses more than 100 historic photos and 500 pages of detailed story-telling to tell the stories of these and many other daring women of the city's early days.

"I was still discovering amazing life adventures of Edmonton women almost even as the book went to the printers," enthused Monto. He said he was particularly surprised by his discovery of the story of Sarah Lendrum, a southside farm girl who trekked into the North in 1896 with a husband she had met for the first time less than a month earlier.

Copies of Edmonton's Southside Roots are available at Alhambra Books, 10115 - 81 Avenue.


The Term "Old Strathcona", Strathcona Oldtimers, Ernest Brown

A wide-ranging series of observations that transition from
The Term "Old Strathcona" to
A Strathcona old-timers reunion to
Zola Campbell to
A.A. Campbell to
Ernest Brown to
The term "Strathcona" to
Lord Strathcona to
Ernest Brown on charges of muckraking...

After the amalgamation of the cities of Strathcona and Edmonton in 1912, how long did it take for the term "Old Strathcona" to emerge?

By 1919 the Strathcona Hotel was known as the "Old Strathcona hotel" (such as in the Ed. Bull., June 19, 1919). iI had been the first building built in the railway centre that became the City of Strathcona, to discriminate between the railway centre and the already-20-year-old farming district on the southside of the river. This pre-existing farming district had been the homes of some families whose names have been immortalized in the naming of places in the city to this day - McKernan, Ottewell, Garneau, Walter (Walterdale). (see my blog "Short history of Old Strathcona")
 
But when did the term "Old Strathcona" first get used for the southside  area that had once been the City of Strathcona?
 
The earliest reference I can find is in 1923 and the "old" is in lower case.
A Edmonton Bulletin report of a gathering of old-timers in that year says "Mrs. A.A. Campbell read her poem on the pioneer spirit that prevailed in old Strathcona, 'It's Just the Thing the Country Needed,' and another rhyme she had written about the early days."
The article relates a historical and hysterical fun night - oh, to have been a fly on that wall that night, as you can see if you read the article reprinted below.
 
The term "Old Strathcona" came into general use in the 1970s as part of the campaign to save Strathcona's historic downtown centre from destruction at the hands of Edmonton city council to build a freeway.
"Old Strathcona" should be used to mean the old city of Strathcona which extended as far asouth as 68 Avenue and west to the river thus taking in the University of Alberta.
But the term is usually used just for a handful of blocks either side of  the Whyte Avenue and 104 Street (which had been Strathcona's Main Street) but has now been sort of sidetracked to mean the Old Strathcona Preservation area  (see below for an article where Old Strathcona is used in this way)

Information on "Mrs. A.A. Campbell"
Mrs. A.A. Campbell (Zola Isabell) (1880-1967) was the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. D.L. Campbell.
Her husband "Archie had been responsible for the oversight of money matters for the City of Strathcona and became the assistant treasurer of the City of Edmonton after amalgamation of the two cities.
A political reformer in those days when progressive political change was not largely disregarded in Alberta, Archie had run as a candidate for the Independent Labour Party in the 1921 provincial election. The ILP slate also included Ernest Brown, the city's most prominent photographer. (look forward with expectancy to my upcoming book on this character!)

Zola was the author of "A Tale of the Early Years,  Dedicated to all South Edmonton Pioneers," a epic poem she published in 1938.
 
Wedding Anniversary of Mr. and Mrs. Campbell Honoured by Old-Timers
(Feb. 12, 1923 Edmonton Bulletin)
D. L. Campbell and wife celebrated their 45th wedding anniversary in 1923. The Edmonton Bulletin coverd the event at which many old-timers, some who had lived on the southside for 30 to 40 years, attended.

They were divided into groups by the year they had come and asked to share the funniest and most interesting event that they remembered occuring in that year. The Campbells themselves came 25 yeras ago.

The stories were exeedingly interesting and varied from the tale of the August snow to the adventures of crossing the river in the days before the bridges were built. Mr. Jack Jackson gave a very amusing account of the police court and how it was run in the early days in Strathcona.

It was indeed a reunion of the old-timers, and the evening passed away very pleasantly in talking of the old times and singing the old-time songs.

Mrs. Jack Jackson presided at the piano just as she used to do in the old Ross hall and sang very delightfuly once more the real old songs of “Mary of Argyle” and 'I Dreamt I Dwelt in Marble Hall.' Mr. Jackson too contributed his favourite 'Rocked in the Cardle of the Deep', while Arthur Davies sang his two songs that used to be a regular feature of the entertainments in Ross Hall, 'Sister Mary' and 'I'm Off to Philadelphia in the Morning.'...Mrs. A.A. Campbell read her poem on the pioneer spirit that prevailed in old Strathcona, 'It's Just the Thing the Country Needed' and another rhyme she had written about the early days.

The program was quite impromptu and wholly delightful and entertaining.”

Names of those in attendance, in addition to Mr. and Mrs. D.L. Campbell, included:

Mr. and Mrs. Jack Jackson
Mr. and Mrs. John McKenzie
Mr. and Mrs. F.A. Peel
Mr. and Mrs. W.J. Scott
Mrs. Margaret Martin [whose house still stands at 84 Avenue and 106 Street]
Mr. and Mrs. Hennessey
Mrs. Duguid
Mr. and Mrs. Tookey
Mrs. Robert Douglas [brother of James Douglas, Strathcona MP, 1909-1921]
Mrs. Christie
Mr. Atkins
Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Davies
Mr. and Mrs. George Thomson
Mr and Mrs. Radford
Mr. and Mrs. Carmichael
Mr. and Mrs. Bob Turnbull
Miss Emily Campbell and Master Duncan Campbell
(Feb. 12, 1923 Ed. Bull.)

(Information on many of these named here can be found in my book "Old Strathcona - Edmonton 's Southside Roots", available at Alhambra Books, Edmonton or through ABEBOOKS.com)

"Old Strathcona" to mean a very small portion of the Old City of Strathcona
Old Strathcona Provincial Historic Area
(with my comments following)
Old Strathcona Provincial Historic Area is situated in the City of Edmonton on the south side of the North Saskatchewan River. Encompassing roughly 5 city blocks stretching from 85 Avenue south to 80 Avenue and from 102 Street west to 106 Street, the district is the historic centre of Strathcona's commercial life. Among the commercial, cultural, and public resources that contribute to the district's heritage value are buildings constructed between 1891 and 1914, including the Strathcona Hotel, the Gainers Block, the Orange Hall, the Canadian Pacific Railway Station, the South Side Post Office, the Douglas Block, and the Princess Theatre.

Heritage Value
The heritage value of the Old Strathcona Provincial Historic Area lies in its representation of the pre-World War One commercial and social development of one of Alberta's most significant early communities. The district also possesses heritage value for the architectural richness and integrity of its historic buildings.

Like many provincial towns and cities, the early history of Strathcona was inextricably tied to the railways. In 1891, the Calgary &Edmonton Railway Company laid track from Calgary to a site opposite Edmonton on the south side of the North Saskatchewan River. The company subdivided the unincorporated Town of South Edmonton and largely directed early development in the community by grading roads and erecting some of the first buildings, among them the Strathcona Hotel, built in 1891. The railway company's activities helped the fledgling settlement to grow and in 1899 South Edmonton was incorporated as a Town and renamed Strathcona; eight years later, the City of Strathcona was incorporated. The economic and cultural development of the community between 1899 and 1907 is embodied in the Gainers Block constructed in 1902 and the Orange Hall built in 1903. The years between 1907 and 1912 represented a period of dynamic and robust growth in Strathcona, as the population swelled and business expanded. The rapid development in these years is embodied in the Canadian Pacific Railway Station constructed in 1907 to serve as the Northern Alberta terminus of the company's rail network and in the South Side Post Office, built between 1911 and 1913 to provide federal services to the burgeoning population. Though the years from 1891 to 1912 had witnessed appreciable growth in Strathcona, it nonetheless continued to lag behind the pace of commercial development set by its cross-river rival, the City of Edmonton. In 1912, Strathcona amalgamated with Edmonton, marking the end of the district's independent development. The Strathcona Public Library was paid for and built by the newly expanded City of Edmonton in 1913, thus reflecting the shift in civic authority in the district. [my comment: Construction of the library had been approved by Strathcona electors before amalgamation and as Strathcona had not had a debt and Edmoton had had one before amalgamation it is a bit of a stretch to say that Edmonton paid for the library.]

The economic slowdown in Strathcona following amalgamation helped to preserve the architectural variety and integrity of the community's early buildings and their embodiment of the area's historic evolution. Early constructions in Strathcona's commercial core were simple wood-frame [my comment: some of the early buildings on Whyte Avenue were log cabin buildings, such as the first school.]

buildings like the Strathcona Hotel and the Orange Hall.

In 1902, mindful of the destruction visited upon other Prairie communities by fires, Town Council passed a bylaw mandating the construction of non-wood buildings along Whyte Avenue. Buildings like the stately red-brick Gainers Block reflect this legislative change. The buildings erected in the Old Strathcona District after the turn of the century differed from their predecessors not only in materials, but also in style. The false-fronted frontier architecture of the 1890s gave way after the turn of the century to more ornate constructions, a reflection of the growth of business capital and entrepreneurial confidence within Strathcona.
Commercial buildings often exhibited a strong classical influence to project an image of stability, permanence, and prestige. Examples of the increasing sophistication of architecture in the Strathcona district are the elegant Princess Theatre, which boasted the first marble-fronted facade west of Winnipeg, and the Douglas Block, which featured a diachromatic design of brick and stone and a crowning cornice, parapet, and pediment. Non-commercial buildings like the South Side Post Office and the Strathcona Public Library also reflected the increasing sophistication of architecture in the community in the post-1900 period while also embodying the success and importance of the district.

Source: Alberta Culture and Community Spirit, Historic Resources Management Branch (File: Des. 86)


Character-Defining Elements
The character-defining elements of the Old Strathcona Provincial Historic Area include such features as:
- the grid-like arrangement of streets and avenues;
- the width of Whyte Avenue and 104 Street reflecting their prominence as early transportation routes and the first graded roads in Strathcona;
- spatial relationship between railway station, commercial district, and non-commercial area situated north of 83 Avenue along 104 Street;
- simple wood-frame architecture of Strathcona Hotel and Orange Hall;
- the predominance of brick structures dating from between 1902 and 1914;
- the predominance of commercial businesses along Whyte Avenue between Gateway Boulevard and 105 Street;
- the scale of the buildings, with the vast majority being three storeys in height or less;
- buildings in commercial area built to the property line;
- sight lines to significant contributing resource elements, including South Side Post Office clock tower and painted signs on commercial buildings;
- use of traditional materials, including painted wood, red and orange brick, and cast stone;
- general design of commercial buildings, including recessed entries, windowed storefront level, sign band area, and upper floors with balanced fenestration;
- pedestrian scale to signage;
- the strong classical architectural influence evident in the South Side Post Office, the Strathcona Public Library, the Douglas Block, the Gainers Block, and the Princess Theatre;
- the standard station design of the Canadian Pacific Railway Station, constructed in the Queen Anne style and incorporating elements from French and Scottish architectural sources.


My comments on the above article: Old Strathcona Provincial Historic Area

"Old Strathcona Provincial Historic Area is situated in the City of Edmonton on the south side of the North Saskatchewan River. Encompassing roughly 5 city blocks stretching from 85 Avenue south to 80 Avenue and from 102 Street west to 106 Street..."

How an area that is five blocks north-south and four blocks east-west can be only five city blocks eludes me. the number should be 20 or so.

the district is the historic centre of Strathcona's commercial life. Among the commercial, cultural, and public resources that contribute to the district's heritage value are buildings constructed between 1891 and 1914, including the Strathcona Hotel, the Gainers Block, the Orange Hall, the Canadian Pacific Railway Station, the South Side Post Office, the Douglas Block, and the Princess Theatre.

The Princess Theatre opened in 1915.

The Alberta Register of Historic Places (ARHP): Old Strathcona info. as excerpted in Wikipedia has many errors:
Old Strathcona is Alberta's second Provincial Historic Area (downtown Fort Macleod being the first), and contains a number of historic buildings.
The designation as a Provincial Historic Area applies to roughly 5 square blocks (see my remark above)

that formed the commercial hub of the former city of Strathcona. It runs from 85 Avenue south to 80 Avenue and from 102 Street west to 106 Street. Within this area are many of the most significant buildings built during Strathcona's early boom from the arrival of the Calgary and Edmonton Railway in 1891 to the Edmonton (should say, and Strathcona)

 real estate crash of 1913–14. Heritage buildings within this area include the Strathcona Hotel, the Gainers Block, the Orange Hall, the Canadian Pacific Railway Station, the South Side Post Office, the Douglas Block, the Princess Theatre, Strathcona Public Library, the Connaught Armoury and Old Scona Academic High School.

My comments: The Connaught Armoury is outside the preservation area, being north of 86 Avenue.
And
The Princess Theatre opened in 1915, despite of and after the real estate crash of 1913-1914.

And the "City of Edmonton Map Utility" as quoted by Wikipedia "Strathcona, Edmonton" has a strange way to answer the question who was the Lord Strathcona that Strathcona was named after:
It says : "Strathcona was named for Lord Strathcona, Hudson's Bay Company Governor (1889–1914) and the man chosen to drive the "last spike" of the CPR transcontinental railway."

I have tried to change the Wikpedia entry to correct this strange wording on the Wikipedia entry but each time it gets changed back (apparently by someone who believes everything someone in authority tells them)

Here's what I would say:
Strathcona was named for Lord Strathcona (Sir Donald Smith) (1820-1914), HBC and CPR magnate  who played in important role in financing the building of the CPR. Lord Strathcona had the honour in 1885 of driving the "Last Spike" at Craigellachie to finish construction of the CPR transcontinental line.

To fill out the story, I want to say:
A Scottish immigrant, Donald Smith worked his way up the ranks of the HBC and helped shepherd the CPR as it worked its way west and east to Craigellachie.

Randy Lawrence in his "Metis Strathcona", a part of "Old Strathcona - Edmonton's Southside Roots" says that "Lord Strathcona's entire career was spent not only "looking out for number one" but in dedicated service to at least portions of the Canadian Establishment and to the British Empire. He helped create a new western Canda, tended over time to more and more identify Canada's, HBC's and the CPR's interests with his own and seemingly had no sruples. Examples of his lack of scruples include his betrayal of HBC "wintering partners"... and some of its institutions such as Fort Edmonton. The railway he and his cousin owned, the CPR, was used to defeat Riel in 1885..He drove the Last Spike only days before Riel was hung in Regina....

If you think this is muckracking I would quote Ernest Brown who did extensive research on the political and economic questions of his day - still very much the same questions today. not like whether to build a pipeline across Native land or to risk wholesale pollution on the West Coast but on why these questions arise - from the capitalist control of the economy. (A low-consumption lifestyle, if widely adhered to, would make the pipeline and oil tankers unnecessary. Alberta is wholesale selling its resources despite ecological risks, to try to ensure that oil company executives are millionaires, oil workers make $100,000-plus incomes (while they are working), and the Conservative Party gets power (to help their friends) and enormous campaign coffers. Why? because they want to and THEY control the economy and the politics of our day... For now anyway.

Here's what Ernest Brown wrote in regards charges of muckraking:
 
In his 30 or 40 years of research he wrote he had come across "things that ought not to have occured in public life."
Some people, he wrote, tell him to "write only of the nice things that people have done", but he wrote "if a perpetrator of some crooked deal knows he is going to be exposed it will give him pause."
On the subject of public swindles, Brown wrote of "the swindle by the chairman and others of one of Canada's largest insurance companies who manipuated funds paid in by policy holders to the tune of $200 M and which was exposed by J.J. Harpell, chairman of the policy holders' committee. - Surely, Harpell did a public service although no monument will be erected in Canada to perpetuate his name."
 
 
THE END





Tuesday 19 March 2013

Mound Culture in North America - Edmonton, Alberta too ?

Mound Culture in North America - Edmonton, Alberta too?

Government officials worked to eradicate evidence of  pre-contact North American peoples in the late 1800s but they could not erase all their structures, in particular the thousands of man-made mounds that still be seen today.

According to one source, John Wesley Powell, the leader of the first trip down the Grand Canyon - and one-armed to boot - and the Director of the Bureau of Ethnology (U.S.) to 1894, directed archeologists,etc. across the U.S. to send him any evidence they had of pre-Contact peoples. More than 100,000 figurines, sketches of rock drawings, etc. were sent to him and promptly destroyed because as he said there was no culture in the U.S. before Contact with Europe so the evidence could not be true. (This accusation is supported in Henriette Mertz's book The Mystic Symbol, Mark of the Michigan Mound Builders, p. 203.)

But many of the more than 30,000 mounds left behind by these peoples in the Mississippi valley, southern Canada and the west coast survived their efforts. One of the largest mound complexes left by this culture were at Marietta, Ohio, where I happen to have spent some of my youth. My paper route was across the street from the town cemetery that had been built around a 10-metre-high mound on a bluff in town. Nearby was the Via Sacria Street, named thusly because it is built on a paved road found by the first White pioneers. it is hypothesized that the road had no material purpose, as the Natives did not have wheeled transport, so must have been for a ceremonial procession, and one local amateur archaeologist/ anthropologist has worked out a scheme whereby the procession ascended to the mound on the bluff then returned to the (Muskingum) river, crossing and after convulations through various mound constructions ascended the hills across the river from Marietta.
 No mounds have yet been found in Alberta although they have been found as nearby as Saskatchewan where Moose Mountain has one of the best known Prairie ones. Pilot Mound, Manitoba is named after one in that area. A Quebecois-born interpreter, Jean L'Heureux, who lived in central Alberta in the 1860s and 1870s, observed that the mound civilization of the Mississippian river valley could have extended as far as Alberta (see "Jean L'Heureux: A Life of Adventure", Alberta History, Autumn, 2012).

The recent discovery of what some think is a pyramid in the Balkans, hidden inside what had been assumed to be a mountain, leads me at least to wonder if perhaps Edmonton's Mount Pleasant or Rabbit Hill could be man-made features - mounds.

Below are some rough notes on this Mound culture.
(The newspaper citations refer to local newspapers, as found by a newspaper search in the Peel's Prairie Provinces website in 2013.)

From The Mound Builders by George Bryce

Mounds were often bifurgated
conical or flat-topped (platform)

Bryce says some mounds built by deposit of midden and multiple burials

used for sepulture and observation, for ritual and ceremonies, and to hold temples and housing

often located near oxbows due to increased surface area between water and land for increased fishing opportunities (Rabbit Hill in Edmonton also near a bend in the river and near Blackmud Creek. Could it be a mound?)

Bryce postulates that when one mound got too big for ease of use, they began on another, perhaps the origin of “Two Hills” in southside Edmonton, the two "hills" of Mount Pleasant (106 Street and 65 Avenue) and Huntington Hills (west of Calgary Trail south of 51 Avenue).

definite mounds have been found and recorded as close to Edmonton, Alberta as Manitoba and Moose Mountain, Sask. and on west coast near New Westminster, Michigan and Illinois and north along the Bering shores.
********************

Brandon Mail June 16, 1887 says pottery and other atifacts exposed by flood in New York State pottery is of type found in western mounds so disproving the assumed separation between Indians and the moundbuilders
***************

B.C.
Mounds at Hatzig in the New Westminster area. Similar mounds can be found in various other parts of the western province (B.C.)

A member of the Historical and Scientific Society of Vancouver dug and found an old skull of distinctive shape that did not correlate with the skulls of the present-day Indians in the area. Also found a copper ring.
(Moose Jaw Herald, Nov. 2, 1894)
***************

author Russell Harper found remains of sophisticated Indian townsites on Rice Lake in the Peterborough area  estimated to have been inhabited 2000 years ago.
goods found that originated in Florida or Georgia coasts

Elaborate mounds also found. They are similar to those found in Ohio while pottery discovered, the earliest painted pottery to be found in Canada, is similar to that found in Massachusetts so the Ontario tribe was perhaps a intermingling of the two groups

Biggest townsite is on the present Hiawatha reserve of the Mississauga Indians and directly south of the present village of Keene, near the mouth of the Indian River.
Another site is on a farm owned by D. Humphrey.
Chronicle, September 11, 1952
********************

Canada has a Serpent Mound

Serpent Mounds National Historic Site of Canada, Otonabee -South Monaghan, Ontario, Canada

Aug. 14, 1906 Red Deer News talks of a call to protect a mound in Ontario, the only serpent mound in Canada in Otonabee Township, Peterboro county. Local historian says he does not accept the theory that the mounds of North America were the work of an extinct race.“All evidence goes to show that these mounds were built by the ancestors of our Indians and mounds have been constructed by the Indians within historical times.”
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Serpent Mounds in Ontario, the only known effigy mound in Canada.
Serpent Mounds, situated on a bluff overlooking Rice Lake near Peterborough, Ont, south of village of Keene, is the only known effigy mound in Canada. It is a sinuous earthen structure composed of six separate burial locations and measuring about 60 m long, 8 m wide and 1.5-1.8 m high. Excavation indicated that the mounds forming the effigy were gradually built up between 50 BCE and 300 CE. This would suggest that Serpent Mounds was a sacred place, visited periodically for religious ceremonies.
Although pieces of grave furniture were not plentiful, their distribution shows they were restricted largely to individuals of higher status within the community. Those individuals were buried either at the base of the mounds or in shallow, submound pits. The commoners were randomly scattered throughout the mounds' fill. From Canadian Encyclopedia

On Saturday, September 9, 1961, a provincial historical plaque commemorating the prehistoric Serpent Mounds will be unveiled in Serpent Mounds Park, County Road 34, Rice Lake, south of the village of Keene in Peterborough County.

This is one in a series of plaques being erected throughout the province by the Department of Travel and Publicity, on the advice of the Archaeological and Historic Sites Board of Ontario.

The unveiling ceremony was arranged and sponsored by the Peterborough Historical Society; Dr. Ralph Honey, president, was the program chairman. Speakers included: Professor J.M.S. Careless of the University of Toronto, a member of the province's Historic Sites Board; Mr. Keith Brown, M.P.P. (Peterborough); Mr. K.E. Kidd, Curator of Ethnology at the Royal Ontario Museum; Mr. T.E. McKay, president of the Serpent Mounds Foundation; and Mr. J.J. Slattery, Reeve of Otonabee Township. The plaque was unveiled by Mr. Ralph Loukes, Chief of the Rice Lake Indian Band.

The plaque reads:
THE SERPENT MOUNDS
The principal mound of this group is the only known example in Canada of a mound of serpentine shape. The earliest archaeological excavation on the site was carried out by David Boyle in 1896. Artifacts and skeletal remains were discovered, but the first comprehensive investigation was not started until 1955. The mounds, somewhat similar to those of the Ohio Valley, appear to have been built while the region was occupied by Indians of the Point Peninsula culture, and are thought to have been religious or ceremonial in nature. Numerous burials have been found in the mounds, which are estimated to have been constructed about the second century A.D.

Historical background

The prehistoric man-made mounds near the north shore of Rice Lake known as the Serpent Mounds are the only ones of their type known to exist in Canada, although there are also similar mounds in Adams County, Ohio. The main ridge of the Rice Lake mound is almost 200 feet in length and serpentine in shape; adjacent to it are several small circular mounds, commonly referred to as the "serpent's eggs."

The Rice Lake formations have been known to archaeologists since at least 1896 when Dr. David Boyle partially excavated them and published a report on his work. (Boyle was the first curator of the Provincial Archaeological Museum, which later became the Royal Ontario Museum.) Systematic investigation of the site began in 1955 when the Royal Ontario Museum, with aid from the Serpent Mounds Foundation and the Ontario government, initiated an extensive program in an effort to discover the nature and origin of the mounds.

Work was carried out during the summer months of the next few years and by 1958 a considerable number of prehistoric Indian burials had been discovered in the immediate vicinity, some twenty-one of these in the mounds themselves. While most of the graves contained little in the way of burial goods, two proved to be quite prolific. One of these included a cluster of forty-one disc beads as well as a turtle carapace and flint chips. Another contained the complete skeleton of a young man, a small animal effigy and shell disc beads.

There were numerous shell deposits in the vicinity and some decorated pottery shards recovered from the site seemed to indicate affinities with the Middle Point Peninsula culture. A charcoal sample collected in association with one of the burials was submitted to a Carbon-14 dating test, resulting in a tentative dating of 128 A.D.

While no definite conclusions have been drawn regarding the purpose of these ancient mounds, it is believed they were originally constructed about the second century A.D., and they were of religious or ceremonial significance to the people who built them.

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1906 A diamond, pottery and skeletons found in mounds in the Rainy River district and on the Seine River

40 miles up from where the Big Fork River empties into the Rainy River there are many mounds. A couple miles farther upstream, at a place called Big Falls is an ancient pottery works.
Ed. Bull., Aug. 17, 1906
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1908 Mounds in Manitoba investigated including Pilot Mound. no relationship between the moundbuilders and whites or the present-day Indians although there might be a distant relationship with the Indians.
Ed. Bull., Oct. 30, 1908
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1911 Near Sheep Creek gold mining camp 25 miles south of Nelson, miners found a prehistoric subterranean chamber carved out of the solid rock perhaps 10,000 years old,.smooth plumb walls 35 feet square A McGill University scientist says it was a mine, and he is aware of such remains of a prehistoric civilization all along the west Coast.  
Ed. Capital May 19, 1911, p. 3
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1916 Prehistoric barrows found at Rock Lake, Manitoba Bow Island Review, April 28, 1916
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Gateway Nov. 14, 1930 article entitled “Secret of the Gods” (by Mugwump) bemoans fact that students study ancient civilizations in the Old World but ignore the “twin continents” of the New World. He/she says perhaps South America was joined to Australia by a Pacific continent and to Africa by an Atlantic continent. And that it is likely that Chinese and Japanese individuals had knowledge of the Twin continents.

And says strange mounds have been discovered on the eastern edge of the Bering Sea

the totem poles and copper sun discs of BC appear to have connection with South American relics.

The magic swastika is found in both old and new worlds.

Mayans were of Indo-Chinese origin

similarity of statues in old Mayan city to those in Cambodia
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Mrs. Perren Baker wrote Prairie Place Names. It talks of cairns and two old rectangles composed of large rocks in the Old Man area of Alberta that gave its name to the nearby river. The Old Man was a mythical character who dug a channel for the river and lingered for a long time in this playground before venturing down to the open plains. Oyen News, Oct. 30, 1929

(Other pre-historic/historic cultural evidences in Alberta include
the diagrams at eponymous Picture Butte, Alberta (now destroyed) and
Writing-on-Stone Historic Site.
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1930s
the Spiro Mound in Oklahoma was opened, and the remains of a tall man dressed in armour with a treasure of pearls lying beside him is said to have been found. Said to be clear evidence that the Mound civilization had equivalent technology to Europe and Asia of the time, and support for the theory that there was one world civilization, with technology and cultural practises being diffused throughout the world, instead of the long-held beleif that the Americas were isoloated from the "Old World."
(My note: The recent arrival of Japanese Tsunami flotsam on the BC coast, unpowered and undirected, gives credence to the idea that through the ageless past groups and individuals made their way back and forth across the Pacific Ocean, some using the proximity of Russia Far East and Alaska to make relatively-easy shore-hugging voyages between the two continents.
That there were conections between the eastern and Western hemispheres is supported in a theory of an early-1400s-AD Chinese gold mine in Cape Breton (on the east coast of Canada!) extolled in Paul Chiasson's book The Island of Seven Cities, and in accounts of the far-ranging voyages of Chinese travellers 600  years ago, such as Gavin Menzies 2002 book 1421. Strangely, Menzie's book overlooks the evidence in pursuit of the same case presented in a book by Henriette Mertz (who is mentioned above) entitled Pale Ink, Two Ancient Records of Chinese Exploration in America, self-published in 1953. (Although overlapping in subject matter, and having identical letters their last names start with, which put the books side by side in alphabetical arrangement on the shelf in the bookstore, every one so far has preferred Menzie's book to Mertz's, a too-common spurning of sources of old knowledge in favour of new shiny presentations. Mertz's book is available at Alhambra Books and through ABEBOOKS.com for those interested in this overlooked gem.)
Neither Chiasson's book and Mertz's books nor their theories are mentioned in the Wikipedia entry for "Pre-Columbian Oceanic Contact." Maybe they are considered too far out there!)

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1950 Prehistoric Adena house discovered in the U.S.
June 8, 1950 Chronicle
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1950 Prehistoric hairpins and necklaces made from Florida shells and alligator teeth found in mounds in Ohio.
Gleichen Call, September 6, 1950
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1952 Mound and remains of a village discovered seven miles west of Brandon.
Crossfield Chronicle, Nov. 14, 1952
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Whiteshell Forest Reserve in SE Manitoba has boulder mosaics or “stone pictures.”
Farm and Ranch Review, Sept. 1, 1959
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Indians grave house was used in old days as a grave marker contained the things the Indian would need in the after life. 
Farm and Ranch Review, Dec. 1, 1952
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aside from mention of mounds in Ohio being used as hazards in gold courses, there is no other mention of “Indians AND mounds” from 1900 to 2000 in Alberta newspapers as of Jan. 2013 in Peel's Prairie Provinces website newspaper search

Much interesting information on "Sask. Archaeology" in the Saskatchewan Encyclopedia (on-line)

Experience the Bohemian Side of Old Strathcona

Experience the Bohemian Side of Old StrathconaCourtesy of Alhambra Books, 10115 - 81 Avenue

East of the tracks is becoming the artistic area of Old Strathcona, supplying must-haves to artists of all media.

Alhambra Books
Paint Spot
Clay Works
Stained Glass
Silk Screen Shops
Videodrome (Alternative Video)
And More

The area has a history of its own. According to the book Old Strathcona Edmonton's Southside Roots, after the railway came in 1891, the east side of the tracks was earmarked to be the industrial area, with workshops, grain elevators and mills (hence the name of the one-time Mill Restaurant). But residences quickly mixed in and the community of Ritchie (south of Whyte Avenue between the railway line and Mill Creek ravine) became an enclave of German-speakers. They attended the German language Trinity Lutheran Church and worked at local German delicatessens and workshops. Zeidler’s woodworking factory at 10066 Whyte Avenue employed many German-speakers, some hired as soon as they got off the train at the nearby railway station.

There was also Minchau’s blacksmith shop building, built in 1925 and still standing after almost 90 years. Adolf Minchau, of German ancestry, came to Strathcona from Russia in 1907. He became a prominent businessman and landlord on Whyte Avenue, and a leader in the Canadian Society for German Culture. But during WWII the government, suspecting him of disloyalty, interned him and confiscated his Whyte Avenue buildings.

The German businesses in Ritchie are almost all gone. The Whyte Avenue Zeidler’s factory is no more, but many buildings on Whyte Avenue are the original pre-war (that is, World War One!) buildings. You can even see the rickety outside wooden stairs on some. This area has again and again shown itself to be unusual. In 1966 a tall tipi behind a store attracted the attention of the Edmonton Journal. A family was living in it, but without running water it was condemned by and city inspectors and the family had to find other accommodations. One of the largest survivors is the large building at 10008 Whyte. This building held Moreau & Sons store in 1912.

A short distance behind the Moreau Building is the old King Edward School, at 101 and 85th, built in 1914. This school replaced the 1902 Grandin Street School nearby, and in turn its students moved to a new King Edward School which opened in 1949 across the street.

Other character homes from the pre-war period can be seen scattered through the Strathcona Community League area, around King Edward School. It seems that finer larger ones can be seen north of Whyte Avenue and sometimes quite quaint smaller ones can be seen to the south. In the early days, when many of these were built, the only dry and free way across the river for a vehicle, horse-drawn in those days, was the Low-Level Bridge, opened in 1900. Thus those doing business in Edmonton preferred to live near Strathcona Road/99 Street, the route to Edmonton, and paid extra for the privilege. (Continued on overside)



Old Strathcona Before the Great Depression

The history presented here was taken from Old Strathcona Edmonton's Southside Roots by Tom Monto, available at Alhambra Books. This 500-page tell-all is the story of southside Edmonton from its start as a scattering of Metis/Indian pioneer cabins to a bustling section of the City of Edmonton in the boom times of the 1920s. Fort Edmonton and tradition drew many First Nations people to the area. The old ways changed dramatically with the coming of the CPR in 1891, giving rise to a European-style commercial centre of South Edmonton. The young community became the town of Strathcona in 1899, then a city in 1907. Amalgamation with the larger city of Edmonton in 1912 ended the community’s separate existence, but residents of “Old Strathcona” played a large role in the life of the combined cities, as the last section of the book reveals.

Today, 99 Street has preserved many of the old buildings that for decades have housed small shops for those passing by or living nearby. Many remember Tubby Bateman’s IGA on 99th. He owned and operated his own shop, and he appreciated his customers, most of whom he knew personally. The money he earned he put back into the community with selfless acts of giving. Another good reason to buy local, from local businesses. The corner of 99 Street and Whyte Avenue is the site of a fine but understated bank building. Its smoothly curved walls enhance the look of the corner.

The first church east of the tracks was an 1893 woodframe Holy Trinity Anglican Church at the corner of 100th and 81st. The wood Anglican building was moved a few blocks away, and in 1912 it was replaced by a clinker brick building, still standing at 101 and 84th. the minister’s rectory at

An historic German-language Lutheran Trinity Church now stands on that site. A German-language church, built of wood, was put on the religious corner in 1902. In 1914 the congregation built a brick church, which is now a registered historic site. The English-style rectory across the street is worthy of a look as well.

Other registered historic resources east of the tracks (named after their first resident) include:

10065 - 80 Avenue Adolph Adams Residence,

9633 - 83 Avenue Trinity Church rectory

9938 - 85 Avenue Thomas Scott Residence at

9944 - 85 Avenue Joseph Graydon

9945 – 85 Avenue Alexander Benson

Many historic East Strathcona buildings are now gone. Old buildings on the north side of 80 Avenue east of 102 burnt down in a spectacular flame around the turn of the century (Y2K that is). It started about 9 am and even by 4 pm additional firetrucks, from Stony plain and Beaumont, were still arriving. Telephone poles across the back alley show evidence of the conflagration.

A brick building built by J.J. McKenzie stood proudly at the corner of 102 Street and Whyte Avenue for almost 100 years but then was destroyed by a fire around 1998. Old woodframe buildings between 80 and 81 Avenues on the east side of 102 Street also burnt down in 1986. These included a building that had once housed J.J. McKenzie’s car garage and dealership. In 1912, a garage employee took a car, “a six-cylinder Everitt”, out for a test drive. Going west on Whyte Avenue, he met a horse-drawn wagon coming toward him on the wrong side of the road. The test-driver took the car off he road and was finally able to stop it after it had crashed through a fence. The horse and vehicle had been thrown down but suffered no lasting injury. In the 1960s, one of these old wooden buildings housed the Yardbird Suite folk club. (Edmonton Journal, December 9, 1966; Old Strathcona Before the Great Depression, p. 336)

Speaking of transportation. In the old days, a streetcar used to come south on the High Level Bridge then east on Whyte Avenue to 91 Street. The bridge across Mill Creek used today was built in 1961. It replaced a 1911 bridge angled northeast-southwest. The 1911 bridge facilitated travel as previous to its opening the best route was a “low-level” bridge at Wye Road (today’s 76 Avenue).

Worries about the safety of the streetcar crossing the CPR railway line caused the part of the route east of 104 Street to be replaced by buses in 1944. Eerily, the last streetcar crossing the railway line at Whyte Avenue did in fact crash into the side of CPR train. Luckily there were no injuries. Old Strathcona Before the Great Depression, p. 314)

The east view of the Strathcona Railway station is at least as good as any other. The octagonal baywindows harken to Scottish roots perhaps in reference to the Scottish ancestry of many CPR officials. The building’s wide bellcast (overhanging) eaves remind some of Oriental stylings. The station’s east view was used as a backdrop for a SNL skit entitled “Polynesia Town.” Yes, the skit’s director well-remembered John Candy once writhed in the snow in pretend anguish in front of 10119 - 81 Avenue. Unfortunately it seems this view will be obstructed by a new mega complex planned to be built there.

About the same time the station was built, CPR built a new roundhouse, in which railcars could be serviced and turned around on a “turntable.” This once-notable infrastructure investment can now be seen (at a distance) at 78 and 100th.

The first church east of the tracks was an 1893 woodframe Anglican Holy Trinity Church at the corner of 100th and 81st. The wood Anglican building was moved a few blocks away, and in 1912 it was replaced by a clinker brick building, still standing at 101 and 84th. the minister’s rectory at

An historic German-language Lutheran Trinity Church now stands on that site. A German-language church, built of wood, was put on the religious corner in 1902. In 1914 the congregation built a brick church, which is now a registered historic site. The English-style rectory across the street is worthy of a look as well.

Other residences registered as historic resources east of the tracks (named after their first resident) include:

10065 - 80 Avenue Adolph Adams Residence,

9633 - 83 Avenue Trinity Church rectory

9938 - 85 Avenue Thomas Scott Residence at

9944 - 85 Avenue Joseph Graydon

9945 – 85 Avenue Alexander Benson

And north of here a single block at the top of Scona Road is almost a time capsule. 92 and 93 Avenue east of 99 Street have no less than 10 historically-recognized homes.

The small–town character of Old Strathcona can be seen at the corner of 76 Avenue and 96 Street, where old-style strip malls provide needed services and goods to local customers. Another at 66 Avenue and 96 Street does the same for Hazeldean. (People looking for an available doctor should check out the new one here—just starting up business, he is advertizing for patients!) The corner grocery store next door (Shop Easy!) is a case where small can be good.

The street where John Candy once emoted -- 81 Avenue east of the tracks -- is carrying on his artistic drive. With its old-style small-town diagonal parking and historic buildings still hanging on and now finding new uses, some of the younger computer set may think they are in a different city. Certainly it is a world apart from the chain stores and the plastic existence found elsewhere. The area is working its way toward a future where humans and their potential, artistic and otherwise, will be respected, where money is not the real bottom line, a place where , writers, actors and artists of all kinds, storekeepers, customers and friends can find a common meeting point.

East Strathcona is the place where they are meeting.
Alhambra Books   10115- 81 Avenue
More than 40,000 books, used, and collectible.
Specializing in classic literature, spirituality, technical
and history, see above!




Historic Tour of Mill Creek Ravine

Notes from a Walk in Mill Creek

Conducted by David Borgstrom and Tom Monto, September 2010


Historic features of Mill Creek

Moving away from River

Bird’s mill remains (post in dry gulch)

Twin City coal mine evidences

Western Clays brick plant evidences

Now-disused roads west of railway line appear as open strips and are sometimes used as informal footpaths today

Vogel site (little evidence except Vogel Hill Road)

Bonnie Doon Swimming Pool

Railway trestle bridges

Papaschase Indian Band grounds south of 76 Avenue





Below is rough draft of a walking guide to Mill Creek starting at Whyte Avenue and moving north toward the river


Below John Logan’s house on 83 Avenue is an old stone fireplace and chimney, the remains of old squatter’s huts in use in 1910s or 1920s.

(see Ben Swankey of Work and Wages, which Jim Selby distributed to his class)



Nearby are old building sites that were not served by roads. (perhaps those once owned by Elmer Luck?) perhaps poorly-paid miners or packing plant workers lived there they could not afford cars anyway so did not need a road adjacent to their homes.



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Bonnie Doon Swimming Pool




88 Avenue steps descend to Mill Creek. You come to the Vogel Hill Road, the name referring to the large business enterprise (packing plant) owned by Wilhelm Vogel that was once located here.

North (to the right of the steps as you descend) is level ground where sat Vogel’s residence (removed in 1980s)

The house across Vogel Hill Road (at 9644 - 88 Avenue ?, replaced an earlier one, which had been used as on office for the packing plant.

Mill Creek flooded in 1976. The Noel? Kinniard (sp?) family living at ?? “Guinnard”? but at the time the building site was lower in the valley and beside the creek. The family living there was used to periodic flooding. But this flood was worse and the family ended up climbing on the roof for safety . They eventually were rescued by the fire department launch.



Cross the creek on the semi-elliptical vertical? culvert (concrete tunnel that carries Mill Creek underfoot). The culvert may be historic, maybe 100 years old.



The open area here was the site of the Vogel packing plant

The first plant, built of wood, burnt down, in part due to lack of water. A new plant built of brick was built.

To remedy the water situation, Vogel dug a well. It was hand dug so it had to be large enough to wield a shovel inside it. When it was finished, it was so large across that it had steps on one side.

The well has been filled in and is not visible.



It was near this spot that the Overlanders, gold-seekers on their way to the Cariboo Gold Rush of the1860s, crossed the ravine. As a member of the group later recalled, after two months on the road trip from Winnipeg, the 200 or so gold-seekers arrived at a particularly steep creek running into the river valley. The travellers had to cut a path through the dense growth of trees and brush, then use ropes to lower each wagon one at a time and to pull each one up the far bank. The ravine made for hard work. But a few hundred metres farther on, they looked down on the river flats—and on Fort Edmonton on the opposite bank of the river. They had arrived in “civilization.” (Supplemental information below)



Climb the hill. A triangular intersection of walking paths, near a look-out, is built on the site of the spur line that served the packing plant.

In the trees uphill is a brick foundation for an old garage, now gone.



Proceed north atop the ridge.

The Pre-WWI Western Clays plant sat in the open space west of the main walking trail (the old rail line). This plant operated from 1912 to 1914. According to Jack Manson, it was located south of Pete Andersons’ plant on Mill Creek, on lots 1-13. Block 126 and Lots 1-18, Block 130, Blk G, Riverlot #17). Western Clays (1913) Ltd., if it started in operation in 1913, was fast off the mark as the Edmonton Bulletin of April 28, 1913 announced that the plant had 300,000 bricks on hand. However the bricks produced by the plant were of poor quality as they had many cracks and were prone to premature disintegration. Apparently, this, plus the general slowdown caused by the world war, caused the business to close after only a couple of years. (Jack Manson, Bricks in Alberta, p. 115)



The EY&P railway…



Nearby steps lead to a flat area at the top of the ravine. This flat area is the site of the old road that served the brick plant and the Vogel packing plant



Half-way up the steps, to the north, the right side, is an old road grade winding into the trees (It is most visible by a person walking north on the main walking trail and looking left. It is easily discernible on old historic aerial photographs.





Twin City Coal Mine

When you come to where a “Multi-use Trail” comes out of the ravine on the right, look to the left. Slightly above the main footpath is an old beam lying on (in) the ground. Above that is an open space, probably the site of the tipple that carried coal conveyor-style over the rail line and from which coal was dropped into rail cars.

Remains of supports for the tipple lie east of the main walking trail. They are earthen bulwarks. You can see more easily when the leaves are gone.



The Twin City coal mine was a large operation with veins stretching underground in three (or more ) directions. One long working stretched almost to the river, ending near the old site of the John G. Auto Building. (refer to Taylor’s Coal mine Workings publication)



Rubble mound west of main footpath

openings for old roads off to the side of the footpath



Locate the fire hydrant opposite 9727 - 93 Avenue.

Walking into woods north of this landmark you will find the site of various mine buildings. Large pieces of conglomerate foundation are the remains of the change shack. Where the mine’s (number) employees prepared or debriefed after their shifts. (how many shifts did the mine work in a day?) One piece supported the north-east (south-east?) wall of the shack.



Northeast of these remains you will find a depression. This is the remains of the “lift hole,” which contained the lift that transported the miners below ground. Metal rods stick out of ground in at least two places



West of this depression is the historic vent shaft. Circular in size although one side is hidden by dirt, Quite large and lined with brick. It has been filled in but the “filling” has subsided, exposing the feature once more.



Returning to the street notice the fine, historic homes along this picturesque street. Proceed west to intersection and turn right.

An open area on your right (opposite 9316 98 Street) was once protected by a fence. Remains of the fence are still visible in some places. This may have been a garden, or a corral for the workers’ horses or for the pit-ponies that pulled miniature railway cars back and forth down in the mine.



Walking into the open area, you may find other evidences of past residences or business. The willow bunch offers some tantalizing evidences of past human activity.



A large, long rubble heap can be found in the trees to the south, roughly opposite 9340 - 98 Street



At the east end of the open space, away from the street, you can see reminders of an old building site.



Returning to the main walking trail (the old rail line).



At the top of the hill to the east is a neighbourhood that since its creation has been a toney part of town. During the City of Strathcona days, it was known as Knobb Hill, a reference to an exclusive part of town in San Francisco?. On one of the highest points there, you can see an old residence, now a recognized historic building. The Molstad House, at 9633 - 95 Avenue, is a private residence and not open to the public.



You are now near a modern footbridge across Mill Creek The bridge is number 278 as a small plaque informs you.



Proceeding along the creek you come to the large culvert/tunnel that carries Mill Creek under the Old Timers’ Cabin. The creek is underground for the entire rest of its journey to the river.



Climbing the large berm that forces the creek to enter the tunnel, you find a pleasant park. On the right (east) among the trees you may notice some old building sites, where private homes nestled in this park-like setting. Caragatas and maples still grow where these early residents planted them to decorate and shade their homes.



A walk past the Conservatory and along the now-dry bed of Mill Creek will take you to the site of William Bird’s mill, ca. 1874. (see supplemental information below)



Nearby is the site of one of the area’s first coal mines. In 1882, local entrepreneur Donald Ross started a simple “gopher hole” mine near the by-then-abandoned mill. Due to concern about the mine undermining the community’s future roads and buildings, Ross was refused permission to develop the mines and it was closed. (see supplemental information below)





1862 The Overlanders

After a two-month trip from Winnipeg, the “Overlanders” arrived at a particularly steep creek running into the river valley. The travellers had to cut a path through the dense growth of trees and brush, then use ropes to lower each wagon one at a time and pull each one up the far bank. The ravine made for hard work. But a few 100 metres farther on, they looked down on the river flats—and on Fort Edmonton on the opposite bank of the river. They had arrived in “civilization.” They had crossed Mill Creek ravine near today’s 89 Avenue.

The group stopped to rest in Fort Edmonton, where 60 men abandoned the trip to try their luck in the Edmonton area. The others, including the Schubert family, took to the trail again, first going to St. Albert, a mission established by Father Lacombe only a few years earlier. After passing St. Albert, the group was again forced to break a trail through wilderness that had not yet seen a wagon.

In October, after loss of life and serious danger and hardships, the survivors arrived in the Cariboo gold country. Historical records say only one of them made any kind of money out of the Gold Rush. (Monto, Old Strathcona Before the Great Depression)



Mill Creek

Mill Creek starts near 23 Avenue east of Meridian Street. Meridian Street marks today’s city limits at that point. The creek pours into the North Saskatchewan River near 96A Street. Tunnels carry the creek’s main branch underground from south of Wagner Road to 69 Avenue, intermittently through the ravine north of there and in its final length before joining the river.

A smaller branch, running from 54 Avenue and 94 Street, joins the main creek near 73 Avenue.

Mill Creek has had several different names: Stoney Creek, Bird Creek, Mill Creek. The district of Edmonton known as “Bruderfeld” by its early Moravian settlers was renamed “Mill Woods” after the creek that runs through it, as well as to meet developers’ need for a mock-pastoral identification for that suburb. Other names of this ilk are “Forestlawn” and “Pollard Meadows.” (Monto, Old Strathcona Before the Great Depression)



1870s Mill on “Mill” Creek

Permanent settlement in South Edmonton began in the 1870s as part of the settlement surrounding the Hudson’s Bay Company fort. Southsiders were not organized into their own group separate from the north side. In those early days, the “Edmonton Settlement” consisted of some farms, churches and businesses, strung along the river, the main route of traffic, and centred around the old Fort Edmonton on the site of today’s Legislative Grounds.

Across the river from Rossdale, which was the site of much fort activity throughout most of the 19th century, lie two different river flats: Walterdale in one direction, Cloverdale in another. Cloverdale seems to have been the location of the first southside offshoot of the fur trade.

In 1871, the HBC directed their resident miller William Bird to build a water-powered flour mill on the southside of the river near Mill Creek, in Cloverdale. According to one source, a sole relic marks the site of this mill. A wooden piling 56 centimetres (22 inches) in diameter stands in the abandoned creek bottom east of the Low Level Bridge. The piling is just northwest of the north end of the pedestrian overpass at 98 Avenue.

Over the next year, Bird carefully chose his mill stones, and it was arranged for a dismantled mill to be brought from England. The machinery was carried to Edmonton by oxcart.

Despite this investment of energy, the mill was not a success. The mill got going in spring 1874 and continued in use only until about 1878. Bird found the water level in the creek was undependable and often too low to power the mill properly. He switched to using a horse on a treadmill but found he could not compete with the steam-driven flour mills others were using.

After the mill’s demise, Bird shifted to farming in the area of his house, on land that would be identified in the 1882 survey as the north half of Riverlot #19. His farm also included upland that would become the southern half of Riverlot #23.

It appears that for many years families had been settling in the area around the fort but only in the 1870s, were their names recorded. Metis families such as the Daigneault family, the Donald family, Charles Gauthier, George Kipling, Joseph McDonald, John Ashen and the Garneau family, were recorded as establishing pioneer farms on the southside of the river in the 1870s. With the exception of the Garneau family, headed by acclaimed violinist Laurent Garneau, and Joe McDonald, member of an illustrious HBC family and later a prominent land-owner in the City of Strathcona, these families drifted, or were pushed, out of the area within a few years.



Coal mines

Since the 1860s, local residents dug coal from exposed coal seams in the area. The miners established informal “gopher hole” mines, usually by digging horizontally into the banks. The most suitable locations for these small “drift” mines on the southside were places where coal seams were exposed in the Mill Creek ravine, at the east end of Cloverdale (on Dowler’s Hill and in the Dowler’s Creek ravine) and in the river valley “cliffs” below Scona Hill and today’s Old Timers’ Cabin.

The exact number of mines in the Edmonton area will never be known as many small informal mines were never registered. Official government recording of mines was not established until 1897. Sometimes these mines pose a problem when the ground above slumps into the mines’ tunnels and cavities. A catalogue of Edmonton coal mines, published in 1971, stated that probably 90 percent of the slumping had already occurred, but that still leaves 10 percent still to fall.

According to the Edmonton Bulletin, a mining company owned by “Mr. Moore and W. Ross (interpreted to be Donald Ross by area historians) opened a coal mine in Riverlot #17 North in late 1880. The mine, located near William Bird’s old mill, had two “gopher hole” mineshafts, . Each of them burrowed about 30 metres into the west bank of Mill Creek ravine. In 1882, the mine employed six men and operated year-round. It thus was Edmonton’s first year-round commercial coal mine and was said to be one of the largest of the “gopher hole” coal mines in the area. It produced coal for the Hudson’s Bay Company steamboats during the summer and for heating of buildings during the winter.

The Edmonton Bulletin reported, “It was the intention of the proprietors to ship the coal to Winnipeg but as it was found impossible to make satisfactory arrangements [for steamboat transportation] the project was abandoned.”

Be that as it may, Moore and Ross were apparently forbidden from developing the mine as it was seen to be within the future boundaries of Edmonton. There was concern about the mine undermining the streets and houses that would be built there. Permission to enlarge the mine was refused, despite one of the owners declaring he “had squatter’s claims to the ground.” Although short-lived, this mine was recorded on the first land survey for the area, conducted in 1882.
The Mill Creek Ravine park map indicates a feature identified as #18 nearby but what the number indicates is not clear.

Perhaps someone at 496-7275 can provide more information.